Archive for the ‘Richard's Recommendations’ category

Richard visits New Mexico’s Ghost Towns and the Geronimo Trail National Scenic Byway

November 11th, 2009

Boy, do we have a lot of Ghost Towns in New Mexico!  Well over a hundred and certainly more.  Recently, we at Travel Guide NEW MEXICO had a chance to visit a few of these.  I apologize for no pictures with this post … guess the ghosts had a different idea of what should … and shouldn’t … be photographed! 

Part of our trip is along the Geronimo Trail National Scenic Byway which starts in Truth or Consequences.  We didn’t make the entire trek along the by way but certainly got a good start and had a great time.

The trip was incredibly interesting.  We started in Truth or Consequences, which really isn’t a ghost town but certainly isn’t booming the way it once was.  After spending time here, I’m convinced that a “boom” is just around the corner.  With hot springs bubbling everywhere (remember … T or C used to be Hot Springs, New Mexico) and the Spaceport getting ready to launch sometime within the next year or two, Truth or Consequences is really a great place to visit.

I’ll bet I’ve driven by the Geronimo Springs Museum a couple dozen times and never stopped.  Boy … what a pleasant surprise inside.  The folks at the Truth or Consequences visitors center, located right next to the museum, were incredibly helpful.  And, LaRena, the museum’s director, is a wealth of knowledge about this great little city.  You’ll learn why T or C is no longer Hot Springs.  You’ll walk around one corner and see one of the largest displays of Native American pottery that I’ve ever seen. 

And then there is Geronimo himself in life size form.  As LaRena told me … “he was small in stature but big in reputation.”   If she’s around when you visit ask her what others thought of this most famous warrior.  You might be surprised. 

Fossils of our ancient mammals are also in abundance.  I didn’t know they roamed here, but why not? 

I could go on and on about the hot springs but I’ll leave that to our friends at the Grande Sierra Lodge and Spa.  What a place this is!  18 luxury rooms and four hot spring pools plus a lot of other amenities.  Manager and part owner, Sazzi Marri, and her staff will be happy to show you around.  You won’t believe this place and owe it to yourself to call and make a reservation to spend a day or more (www.sierragrandelodge.com).  Be sure and tell Sazzi I said “hello” and recommended you call. 

Okay … now on to the Ghost Towns.  Our first stop was Hillsboro, which is still home to about 100 people.  The folks there told me they have the two best restaurants in New Mexico and we thought the food … all home made … was great.  Hillsboro’s really laid back so be patient when ordering.  There is no rush!  One of the restaurants is open for dinner on Saturday night so if you time your visit right you might have a fun evening with the locals.  Be prepared, however, because they only make so many meals.  When they are gone they’re gone! 

You have to visit Hillsboro’s old courthouse with a great history and story about a very famous trial that was held there.

The jailhouse next door was more interesting to me than the tales of what transpired in the courthouse.  Steel doors and windows are still intact and you can peer into the cells and see just exactly why you wouldn’t want to spend time there.  The view is so spectacular one of the locals told me he thinks the folks housed there probably asked to be arrested just to enjoy the view!

I would encourage you to walk the Main Street and side streets.  If you see people sitting on the porch or walking nearby stop and ask them questions about the homes and town.  They’ll be more than happy to answer your questions.

Down the road a few miles is Kingston, in the late 1800’s the largest city in New Mexico outshining Albuquerque by about 1,000 people. Today, only 10 people on full time basis call Kingston home. Founded about 1880 this mining boom town quickly became the place to be.  If I remember correctly there were somewhere around 28 saloons, a post office, general store and hotels.  Then the price of silver dropped by 90% overnight and the mining stopped as quickly as it started.  The Percha Bank Gallery & Museum is a wonderful place to visit.  It looks exactly as it did when the town was booming, complete with teller cages and huge vault.  Mark Nero, the director, will be happy to share the history with you.  There are great old photographs of the folks who once lived there – a lot of fun to look at while visiting with Mark! 

Just west of Elephant Butte, out near the airport, is Cuchillo.  Now this is a ghost town complete with ghosts!  Paranormals have confirmed the presence of spirits throughout the town and a couple of the locals I talked with have heard the recordings and one recognized the voice of the person speaking.  A little spooky … but the local café, which is open Friday-Sunday, is a great place to stop for a friendly … and ghost free … meal.  Here, the specialty is Mexican food … not New Mexican food.  This means the chile isn’t hot but everything is made fresh and worth the stop.  Don’t be surprised if the kitchen help comes out and chats with you about the town and history! 

We continued past Cuchillo and headed toward Chloride where the road literally ends!  Just off Highway 52 past Winston is this great little town, which is literally being restored by Don Edmund, his wife and daughter.  I could write a book about my conversation with Don.  He showed us all over town and explained every building there, including the bank that never had a dime in its vault! And the “hanging tree” that never hung anyone!    

When you visit stop in at the general store and ask if Don’s around.  If he’s available I’m sure he’ll give you a guided tour like none other.  This is truly a labor of love for the Edmund family.  Don took us up the hill to the cemetery where we noted two graves that said “Killed by Indians” and saw where famous bad guy, John Wesley Harden’s, brother is buried.  His brother was allegedly the “nice guy” of the family and is so honored on his headstone. 

Oh … when you talk with Don ask him about his “hidden treasure” … one of the buildings he bought from the decedents of the original owner and what he found inside after the building was opened for the first time in over 60 years!  

Chloride is really something to see and I can’t wait to take another trip and spend a little more time with Don. 

These ghost towns are pure gold in New Mexico and need to be treated with respect.  Remember … take only pictures and leave only footprints when you leave

And let me know if you run into any ghosts while you are there!

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Filming Adventures in Sandoval County

October 26th, 2009

We had a great time filming within Sandoval County, particularly on the drive up the Jemez Trail Scenic Byway.  We learned along the way just how important it is to obey the speed limits and make sure you have permission to film! 

Just before entering the Jemez Pueblo, Benny Shendo, Jr., the Pueblo’s 1st Lt. Governor, stopped us as a reminder that we were about to enter the Pueblo and that no filming was permitted without permission from the Pueblo Governor.  Before we knew it we were in the presence of the Governor David Toledo, 1st Lt. Governor, Benny Shendo, Jr., and 2nd Lt. Governor, Stanley Toldeo, to talk about our filming and travel adventure and to learn about the Jemez Pueblo and the great people who live there.  Governor Toledo explained why photography is limited within the Pueblo and graciously gave us permission to film as a way of showing all of you what a great place Jemez Pueblo is to visit.  Lots of art and pottery and the Visitors Center is a must!

As we entered Jemez Springs we had another surprise.  Ace Producer, Frank Melo, who was behind the wheel, was pulled over for doing 36 miles an hour.  Now we who work on Travel Guide NEW MEXICO know that Frank is the last guy to ever get caught for speeding.  If anything he would be the guy to get stopped for going under the speed limit!  And we should have known that to truly appreciate all there is to see in and around Jemez Springs you do need to maintain the 25 mile an hour speed limit! 

los-alamos-thumbnailOn to Los Alamos, New Mexico, and after a long 14 hour day of filming the Jemez Trail Scenic Byway we decided that one last shot was in order.  That shot happened to be the sign announcing “Los Alamos National Laboratory.”   So, we sent junior producer/photographer, Dan Schueler out with the camera to get just the sign.  Lo and behold, it wasn’t two minutes before two very heavily armed security officers had Dan in a tizzy…literally.  Poor Dan didn’t know what to do.  They were threatening to haul him away, confiscate the camera and take Frank and me along for the ride as well!   So, after a short time of discussing our situation we were permitted to “move along” but not until we erased all images of the Lab’s sign!   Then we were told that we could contact the Lab’s public relations office to get “approved” photos of the sign and other Los Alamos photos. 

All in a day’s work for Dan and the rest of us at Travel Guide NEW MEXICO!  Honestly, though, it was great having a chance to meet the leaders of the Jemez Pueblo and learn about their history and culture; a  Sandoval County Sheriff’s Deputy (who give us some great ideas of places to stop and film); and to fully understand the security of Los Alamos National Laboratory and why security is so important there. 

Perhaps down the road we’ll do an entire show on “Photographing New Mexico – The Do’s and Don’t’s!”    Just another TGNM adventure!

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Richard’s North Central New Mexico Recommendations

October 20th, 2009

New Mexico continues to amaze me with all the places I haven’t seen in the fifteen years I’ve lived here.  I’m certain the same is true for most of your reading this blog.  Here are my notes on North Central New Mexico!

This week is another of those “WOW – I didn’t know this was here” trips.  Our first stop was the Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Spa and Resort.  Tucked away in Ojo Caliente right off Route 84 (?) this is one incredible place to spend a couple of days.  Soaking in mineral baths under the stars is a pretty awesome way to spend an evening.  The mud baths are rejuvenating and the food is excellent!  You should give it a try!

ghost-ranch

Just up the road in Abiquiu is Ghost Ranch, made famous by Georgia O’Keeffe’s New Mexico paintings.  Did you know that Ms. O’Keeffe didn’t own Ghost Ranch but lived on a few acres there?  I didn’t and also was unaware of the many things to do at Ghost Ranch … from painting and exploring to looking for dinosaur bones and taking classes on a wide variety of subjects.  Or, just spending family time there horseback riding.  Incredible things to do for folks of all ages.  I’m planning on taking my family there for a few days to relax, unwind and learn!

Chama is one of those real hidden treasures.  It’s more like the Northwest than what most of us believe New Mexico to be.  Moderate days, cool nights.  On our summer trip there was no air conditioning and the fresh air blowing through the open windows with a blanket pulled up around me put a huge smile on my face!  Big trees … lots of green all around and a truly wonderful place to spend time relaxing, fishing and just enjoying the scenery.

Speaking of scenery … when in Chama you must ride the Cumbres & Toltec Railroad.  You’ll learn a lot about the history of Northern New Mexico and Southern Colorado as you wind you way through the mountains crossing back several times between the two states.  This is a great all day family adventure on an old coal fired and steam driven locomotive.  I promise this is a trip you’ll want to take more than once.

FishingI loved my time on the Jicarilla Apache Nation in Dulce, just a few miles from Chama.  The people are wonderful … the fishing and boating pristine (I hear the hunting is exceptional) and the native baskets and beadwork art is second to none.  I bought a great purse there for Janine that is beadwork on an animal skin (deer, I think!).  She loved it and I enjoyed talking with the artist who created it.  Watching these ladies piece together the beaded pieces and making baskets is really something unique to see.  I still can’t figure out how they do what they do and I walked away with an increasing appreciation for the history and culture of these great people.  And the land they live on is something spectacular to see, too!

It’s not a long drive from Ojo Caliente to Chama and Dulce.  If you want to do this trip right then make sure you plan three or four days.  If you want to do some great fly fishing and/or hunting I’d make it a week!

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